Posts tagged ‘Dior’

October 1, 2013

A Real Cost of Participating in a Fashion Week

fashionWeekFashion weeks is a multi-million dollar business. Thousands of jobs got created because of this 20th century entertainment phenomena. These days every large city wants to host their own Fashion week. Paris, Milan and New York hold the largest fashion weeks twice a year. Other big cities that have a fashion week are Toronto, Tokyo, Shanghai, Berlin Los Angeles and dozen others.

Have you ever wondered how expensive is to participate in a fashion week? Do they charge fees? Do they pay any labels to participate? What is a real cost of presenting a collection at a international fashion week? Here is what we found out:

To participate well established labels don’t have to pay entry fee, nor they need to pay for the venue since tickets are sold to attend that cover these costs. They however have to pay for decoration and operations of the show they are putting. A fashion show revealing the new collection can easily cost hundreds of thousands of dollars according to Forbes. Cost is broken down between setting up the venue decor, furniture, building the runway and backstage room, hosting a reception, hiring models, stylists and make-up artists and so forth. According to Forbes interview with a famous fashion show producer Thomas Onorato, certain costs may appear surprising. Large labels can shell $20,000-50,000 just to hire a celebrity stylist or makeup artist, which in turn will pay off in increased sales if presentation goes well. Some models request a special suite, that of course, has to be built at participating label’s cost, this on the top of paying the model. A famous phrase by Linda Evangelista “We don’t wake up for less than $10,000” which was said back in 90’s gives us a rough idea how much just a few minute appearance can cost designers.

A newly emerging label has to pay differently. While it is up to them how much operating expenses they want to spend, they have to pay for venue rental on top of that. As venues compete for business, some offer value-add participation by providing services such as lighting and stage organization such as MAC and Milk in New York. But even to those, to get in, a designer has to be invited. So, you can’t be just completely new label.

As shows get larger, with close to 300 labels showcasing collections a few minutes apart during the week, scheduling of events is becoming more challenging. Paris fashion week has a reputation of a very good organization with not more than one large label showing the collection per hour. This gives media time to switch between the viewings. New York fashion week in contrary, has a bad reputation of scheduling that affects labels in the long term. If media and photographers didn’t get a chance to make good pictures there will be no publicizing later. Perhaps this is the reason why so many grand labels, such as Versace or Dior for example did not participate in the New York fashion week this year. In a slow economy labels have a choice where to put their money.

August 29, 2013

Christian Dior Loved Flowers and Number 8

00/00/1957. Christian Dior Portraits by Lord SnowdonDior online magazine gave us new information about label founder Christian Dior. Apparently Christian Dior loved flowers and knew a lot about growing florals. He had extensive knowledge of various types of flowers and his favorite one was lily-of-the-valley. This does not come as a surprise since we see flowers in many of his original dress designers. In fact, he was a master of silhouette and often said that woman should look like a flower.

Dior was also interested in numerology. His favorite number was 8. He used it in his designs as well, but more importantly incorporated it in his business. His atelier included 8 floor and 8 workshops. Number 8 is the luckiest number in Chinese culture because by the sound it means wealth. It is also a significant number in Japanese numerology and general Astrology. With enough digging one can find a lot of resemblance in number 8. So, we learn that Christian Dior was superstitious.

He didn’t have an easy life, especially during the war. During the WW2 Christian Dior was dressing up Nazi’s wives when his own sister was arrested by Gestapo and sent to a labor camp. He tried to help her via his Nazi connections, but in vain. She was released eventually and lived until 2008 outliving him by some 40 years. So, war and tough times certainly impacted Christian’s outlooks and to shield himself from troubles he used to work on his garden and grow flowers.
diorFlowers2Flowers are very easy to incorporate into women fashion designs. Raf Simons, current Dior designers put a special emphasis on using flowers in almost each and every run way model. The enamel rings with flowers put into production under past designer John Galliano are still extremely popular buy for women. Flowers are used on Dior purses and Dior sunglasses extensively.

diorFlowers

 

Christian Dior was openly gay, but his romantic connections were kept out of public view. It was not common to talk about private life with public and was not even considered a good tone to ask. Unlike today, famous people had a lot of power to shield their lives from publicity and press was respectful of that. Love of flowers can explain his sexual orientation as he tried to enjoy what women do and flowers at that time were among the greatest objects of admiration.

June 23, 2011

John Galliano Trial Report

John Galliano trial was held yesterday, June 22 in Paris. Following the incident in the Paris café on February 28, 2011 after which flamboyant designer has been arrested he was accused for anti-Semitism and racism. John was also fired by house of Dior the next day after the arrest. To date, John Galliano scandal is the loudest in the history of fashion.

First reports regarding the pace of the trial has appeared in press.

John appeared in court with the team of his lawyers and an interpreter. It was reported that he was dressed in rather reserved outfit if compared to his usual wear, however one could still say this was a man of fashion and art by his tie over the bare skin and long hair.

All witnesses spoke out in details describing Galliano behaviour and singling out offensive words he said under the influence of alcohol. What exactly he said, please read and watch here.

Galliano was given time to speak out his testimony. To our biggest surprise, all his testimony was directed towards turning jury into pity. He talked about his story with alcohol that began in 2007 and turned into addiction after tragic death of his best friend Steven Robinson. He testified that he is battling a “triple addition” to alcohol, Valium and sleeping pills. After a decade of his Dior tenure Galliano faced an immense pressure from corporation to not only produce several collections a year for both Dior and John Galliano label, but also promote it actively in the wake of financial crisis. In fact the pressure was so high that following his father death in 2005 he had to go back to work straight from the crematorium. His scandalistic behaviour in public places was not rare and knowing that he is famous, basically iconic figure, he was often provoked to say things he didn’t really mean. It is an undeniable fact that his love of Hitler came out in such public encounters with strangers several times. There are testimonies from direct plaintiffs and there is a video confirming the fact.

His lawyer Aurélien Hamelle argued that the video should be left out as evidence as Galliano spoke quietly and it should not be considered “public” speech.

The biggest surprise in all this trial is the lawyer team took defensive approach. Galliano has never apologized and now when lawyers are arguing against the video it is clear that apology will not come during the trial. If only Galliano would do what other celebrities did in similar cases, the whole trial would not be as public. If convicted all he will be facing is maximum $30,000 fine and six months in prison. Prison term is unlikely.

In a course of this defensive approach Galliano lost his job at Dior, was cut from the creative team of his own John Galliano label, faced the most negative press coverage by all national publications and even fashion press. All of this could have been minimized by a simple, public apology. Is it a matter of principle or a matter of a few thousand dollar fine? Is it worth a career?

The verdict is to be decided by September 8, 2011.

 

 

 

June 7, 2011

Dior 2011 Collection – New Additions

Dior eyewear team must be the hardest working from all. This year they have released over 40 new styles in various categories: trendy, retro and classic. The company has taken a utility approach to release many models to appeal to people of different styles, ages and even budgets. We can’t pass on mentioning the color versatility of the brand. Some models come in as many as 6-7 colors such as Dior Paname or Dior Ladycat 1/S. We talked earlier about eyewear industry trends and how companies are not following two seasons Fall/Winter and Spring/Summer- they are releasing new models few at a time adding them to the year collection. This makes sense because glasses don’t have a season – you wear them all year long every day and sun is shining no matter what. In line with this strategy please, enjoy a few new additions to Dior 2011 eyewear collection:

Dior 3213 Dior 3214
Dior C_DIOR 3213 Dior C_DIOR 3214
Dior 3754 C_Dior 3753
Dior C_DIOR 3754 Dior C_Dior 3753
Dior CHICAGO 2 Dior LADYLADY 1 Dior LADYLADY 2
Dior CHICAGO 2/S Dior LADYLADY 1/S Dior LADYLADY 2/S
Dior MOHOTANI Dior MYLADYDIOR 6
Dior MOHOTANI/S Dior MYLADYDIOR 6
Dior SIMPLICIE 1 Dior SIMPLICIE 2
Dior SIMPLICIE 1 Dior SIMPLICIE 2